2013年3月21日星期四

the processes by which these and other designers make use of African forms and imagery


 In 2009, she again wrote of Africa’s presence on the
Figure 3
Reliquary figure, Fang, Southern Cameroon
and Northern Gabon, wood, metal, H: 42.5 cm
(17”), The Stanley Collection, University
of Iowa Museum of Art. Photograph by
Steven Tatum.
50 “Quelques modèles des intéressants
tissues de RODIER créés spécialement
pour l’exposition coloniale,” La
Renaissance de l’Art Français (May
1931): 256.
51 Paul Sentenac, “Les Tissus coloniaux de
Lesur,” La Renaissance de l’Art Français
(August 1931): 263.
52 “Des Bibelots Pris à l’Exposition
Coloniale Orneront Nos Costumes de
Plage,” Femina (August 1931): 20.
53 “Globetrotting,” Style.com (2002). (www.
style.com/trends/trend_report/072902/
index.html)
54 Suzy Menkes, “Next Stop, Africa.” The
New York Times Style Magazine (Spring
2005): 60.
60 Design Issues: Volume 25, Number 3 Summer 2009
runways, speculating about the relationship between fashion and
politics: “And is the current design passion for Africa a recognition
of Barack Obama’s roots?”55 Africa has appeared in diverse guises
including Jean-Paul Gaultier’s 2004 women’s haute couture designs
that were African-themed, with dresses named “Kilimanjaro,”
“Bambara,” “Abidjan,” sheath bridal gown ,  and “Ashanti.” In 2003, Donna Karan’s New
York runway show was an “Ode to Africa” that used the sound of
a drumbeat on the soundtrack, and presented “red-brown colors,
frayed hems, and broad-fringed belts that engulfed the short hems
of draped jersey dresses.”56 Other designers who have made use
of African images or themes since 2000 include Kenzo, Miguel
Androver, and Dolce and Gabbana.
While the processes by which these and other designers make
use of African forms and imagery differs little from past practices
(although the garments that result are certainly not copies of earlytwentieth-
century Africanisms) a new layer of complexity is added
through the presence of African designers in contemporary fashion
markets. African fashion designers are themselves participating in
the international sartorial discourse on Africa.  Japanese school uniforms .In 2009, New York
Fashion Week included the first major runway show devoted solely
to African designers.57 While not many designers from Africa have
attained wide visibility outside their countries of origin, several have
received international attention. Their expressions of their African
identities vary widely, but all struggle to avoid being confined by the
label “African designer.” Many engage with, and sometimes subvert,
the expectations that have been created by a long history of exoticism
in Western fashion markets.
http://beata21.exteen.com/20130322/reveals-that-african-women-dressed-in-their-8220-native-8221


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