At ShopKo, 65 percent of shirts, jeans and other basics in plus sizes and other categories fall under four private labels, says the retailer. The reason? There are few national brands with high levels of equity that a value-driven retailer has access to, says ShopKo. In addition, private label allows ShopKo to give the customer the best bang for her buck.
At Simply Fashions, president Rodney Barstein says many vendors are reluctant to make more costly larger garments. And size specifications can differ from vendor to vendor.
A QUICK TURN AROUND THE FLOOR
Regardless of whether or not a retailer uses private label or nationally branded goods, vendors say there is still a great deal of reluctance among some retailers to devote increased floor space to plus sizes. One reason could be that plus sizes turn more slowly than conventionally sized goods.
Regardless of whether or not a retailer uses private label or nationally branded goods, vendors say there is still a great deal of reluctance among some retailers to devote increased floor space to plus sizes. One reason could be that plus sizes turn more slowly than conventionally sized goods.
“Many retailers are not willing to make an investment like ShopKo has in more expensive inventory that turns more slowly,” says Vassarette’s Fuentes. “So it’s not just the space. The cost of putting in triple X goods is like putting in a whole other line.”
Growing the plus-size section could also mean taking space away from other categories. And these other categories may also be earmarked for growth. “You have the missy area, juniors and young men’s all becoming important,” notes Delta Burke’s Zelman. “The mass is looking to build overall apparel because it has traditionally been known for hardlines.”
Even without expanding plus-size departments, some vendors say turns in existing ones are increasing. At Chic/H.I.S., Luehrs says his jeans business turns 3.5 times annually at Kmart; a decade ago, this only happened once a year. So even if more space is not given to the category, retailers can still grow their plus-size business, he adds.
And when retailers like ShopKo keep their inventories narrow and deep, advances in EDI and vendor managed inventory now ensure that goods are in stock, say vendors.
Unfortunately, though, vendor consolidation often goes hand in hand with stepped-up technology. This is what may have happened to Jacques Moret, a New York-basedbodywear supplier which ceased general distribution of its plus-size line. While one assortment remains exclusive to Bradlees, other retailers can feature Moret’s plus sizes as extensions of the vendor’s conventionally sized product assortments, says the company. Sizes go up to 2X.
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