Casual pants in department stores are casual pants

"Casual pants in department stores are casual pants," says Luehrs. "In discount stores, they are dress-up pants that people might wear to church. It's a dress-up pant for the blue-collar guy. For the guy who shops at Macy's, it's a casual Friday product."

This buying pattern, adds Luehrs, is evidenced by how products are merchandised: In department stores, dress pants and casual khakis are in separate departments. At mass, there are usually no true dress pants available; generally, khakis are merchandised with or alongside jeans.

In all channels, though, a desire for neatness and comfort is encouraging consumers to think about khakis, says Dickies' Ragsdale. "It's an in-between category'" he adds. "My impression of the khaki pant customer is that it is their number one concern to feel comfortable but to feel they look good and not dressed down. They also don't want to look too young."

A few years ago, offering khaki pants with wide appeal was difficult for value-driven retailers. What was available mainly came via private label and little-known suppliers. Often, pants had strange fits which were sometimes caused by stiff fabrics and "knock-off" silhouettes. But development of better finishing processes in recent years and increased branding of the category is making khakis more attractive to mass merchants and consumers.

"Garments have softened up significantly," says Barrow's Jennings. "This has allowed the category to grow tremendously at mass while adding only $1 to the retail price as opposed to the $4 or $5 added by finishing garments [for softness] the old way."

On the branding end, almost every major jeans supplier now offers khaki pants. To some, this may be the suppliers' defense against the ever-increasing quality and popularity of private label in jeans and other sportswear.

"Originally, it was all private label in khakis," says V.F.'s LaGrega. "While there's been big changes in private label, consumers who tried those products in the past were not happy with the quality. So they were reluctant to try again, even years later.

"In developing products, we found there was not a recognizable brand for men they trusted," he adds. "From a quality point of view, they did not perceive that the discounter had a product with which they associated quality." yanzic0710.

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