On the color side,
choices include navy, stone, black, olive and, of course, khaki. Like jeans,
hues are neutral. Dickies' Ragsdale notes that khaki has become the category's
name, even when it is not a product's color. "Today's consumers and trade
buyers use khaki as a designation for a category," he adds. "The word
`khaki' denotes color, although it's come to mean a certain type of pants as
well. We have consumers calling our navy pants khakis."
Still, there are wide
differences in opinion over what is and is not a khaki pant. For many experts,
though, the deciding factor seems to be the fabric. "It's a lighter fabric,"
says Leuhrs. "In jeans, you mostly use 14.75-ounce denim; in casual pants,
you're talking 8-ounce fabric."
Everybody also has a
different theory on when khaki pants first became popular: One retailer says
they were popularized in the 1940s via Gregory Peck movies; Dickies, which has
offered its classic "874" khakis for years, says its production of
khaki uniform pants for World War II spurred the original trend, and a regional
retailer says they were the East Coast college "uniform" during the
early 1960s.
Whatever the true story
may be, most suppliers are reporting even larger gains in casual pants than
retailers. Since many of products have been sold to chains but have not yet hit
the retail floor, the increase could be a harbinger of even better days to
come.
Luehrs says-khakis now
represent 35 to 40 percent of his overall pants business; growth of
five-pockets has slowed to "less than 5 percent," he adds.
Thomas R. Jennings,
president of Barrow Manufacturing Co. of Winder, GA, says cotton twills now comprise
75 percent of sales; jeans represent a mere 5 percent. Five years ago, about 40
percent of the company's business was in casual pants and 25 percent in jeans.
Remaining business is and has been done in dress pants and other products.
"Five or six years ago, cotton twills weren't that much in demand,"
he adds, "although we had them."
NOT JUST FOR CASUAL FRIDAY
Casual Fridays have
played a major role in khakis' resurgence in the 1990s. But while Wall Street
employees may shop for Friday garb at The Gap, khakis can take on different
meanings at mass, where many shoppers are employed in blue-collar occupations. yanzic0710.
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