Since Los Angeles is the denim capital, there are so many brands here using the same facilities

David Lim, owner and designer of the Los Angeles-based denim-driven brand Kasil, said the February installment of Coterie is always a particularly busy show because fall is a big season at retail.
"Coterie has a reputation of being a juried selection and because of that, buyers at Coterie write orders more often than at other shows. Buyers tend to want to stock up their stores during fall," Lim said. "We always want to do our best there." Lim declined to provide a projected three-day wholesale volume, but said he would like to increase the number of specialty stores where his collection is offered.
At Coterie, he intends to build the brand up, while maintaining what he calls "the cool factor." One way of doing this is by sticking with smaller boutiques and forgoing the department store route.
The wholesale price range of Kasil denim is between $85 and $120. Corduroys, which wholesale for $85, are expected to be a big hit for fall. Kasil's cords come in chocolate brown, khaki and maroon. A small sampling of women's blazers made from 100 percent cotton will be introduced this season, wholesaling for $175.
The timing of the show was an issue for Lim, but since all of the merchandise is produced in Los Angeles, it wasn't the Chinese New Year affecting his schedule. Producing domestically brings its own unique set of circumstances.
"No matter how long you do it, it doesn't get any easier," Lim said. "Since Los Angeles is the denim capital, there are so many brands here using the same facilities and there are so many samples going through. If something comes out wrong, we have to take it back to the drawing board."
Alice Cheng, founder of the New York-based contemporary line A. Cheng, said she'd like to move into more department stores, but understands such a move takes time.
"Department stores like to look at you for a couple of seasons before they take you on," Cheng said. Currently, A. Cheng is available in 80 specialty boutiques in the U.S., Canada, Sweden and Denmark. Wholesale prices of the collection range from $98 for blouses to $200 for coats. Dresses wholesale for roughly $140.
This season, Diana Lee joined Cheng as co-designer. Lee previously designed her own collection of sweaters. With Lee on board, Cheng said the collection has grown by about 40 percent.
"Since the collection is now twice as big, I think we should do about $900,000 in wholesale volume for 2006," Cheng said, noting that the total was double last year's volume. yanzic0514.
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