Dresses were cut close to the body in plaid gabardine or full-skirted in lace or metallic tweed, cinched with belts

Sweetface: Add "quick study" to Jennifer Lopez's title of actress/pop diva/designer. The tight Sweetface collection Lopez showed on Friday indicated the willingness -- not to mention the savvy -- to take her lumps and learn from them. After her much-ado-about-little extravaganza a year ago and a one-season hiatus from the runway, Lopez returned with a shrunken presentation. It pulsed with "I-still-have-much-to-learn" humility, all while she worked her superstar wiles to uber advantage, greeting her guests before the show wearing a politely sexy dress and pumps. "I wanted to do something more personal, so you can really see the clothes," she said.
With an Airstream trailer as the backdrop, out came her models -- each in La Lopez hair and makeup -- in an appealing dialogue between ladylike dressing and street-smart style, the former attributed to a Sixties obsession triggered by her work in the biopic "El Cantante." Dresses were cut close to the body in plaid gabardine or full-skirted in lace or metallic tweed, cinched with belts; outerwear ranged from a plaid swing coat belted in front to a shiny hooded vest trimmed with fur, and deep-ribbed, knit-cuff knits lent attitude to skinny jeans. The results were more polished than before, and twinkled with the glow of a still-new endeavor really coming together.
Matthew Williamson: Times are tough for designers who revel in all things bohemian. And Matthew Williamson seems to be having a particularly hard time of it. With its overly retro silhouettes, his perplexing fall collection resembled a casting call for extras in "The Ice Storm" -- a seeming attempt to turn tailored wool groovy. So, too, his usual strengths of color and print appeared to malfunction. His palette swung from excessively bright to dull and muddy. And a fluorescent Aztec print that ran throughout in silk dresses, bow blouses and flouncy skirts was appealing in none of the above. In all fairness, there were redeeming factors, namely those cashmere sweaters and boucl-and-lam coats and yes, there will always be a customer for beaded chiffon.
Cynthia Rowley: As the New Amsterdam Boys Choir performed a medley of reworked pop ballads, Cynthia Rowley was singing the blues. Channeling painter Yves Klein's yen for the color, she worked her flirty little pieces in every imaginable shade, only throwing in spots of red, gold and pink here and there. Some noteworthy looks included her pretty puff-sleeve blouses worn with cropped skinny pants, delicate lace dresses and a playful trapeze coat. Yet that color fascination seemed to be the designer's only focus, as the rest of the collection was incohesive: exaggerated cowl-neck dresses; an ill-fitting satin cocktail slip worn jumper-style over a knit top; an asymmetric-gone-haywire dress. Then there was the peculiar "Magical Mushroom" motif worked into all of her prints, and also etched into the gold-plated hardware. It all left us wondering if Rowley was spending too much time in "Wonderland."  yanzic0516.
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