2013年6月13日星期四

These companies have impacted the fashion world as significantly as rap once changed the musical landscape


The skyrocketing urban-sportswear market grosses an estimated $5 billion a year, propelled by brands like Enyce (pronounced en-EE-chay), Mecca, Fubu, Phat Farm and Ecko Unlimited. Michigan-based Pelle Pelle, one of the most successful new labels, grossed a remarkable $69 million last year. These companies have impacted the fashion world as significantly as rap once changed the musical landscape. "The term urbanwear is kind of tired," says twenty-five-year-old Ryan Cross, the marketing and advertising director of Mecca. "We just consider ourselves a men's collection." Indeed, brands like Fubu and Enyce are making inroads into suburban malls across the country.
"'Urban' men's lines," scoffs Def Jam cofounder and chairman and Phat Farm founder Russell Simmons. "It used to be the ethnic-clothing division. At least it's not the nigga division. The big deal about Phat Farm is, we sell pink golf sweaters -- a lot of them. You can't call that urban. That's the most non-urban thing, in terms of what a buyer's looking at."
Since the Eighties, hip-hop kids have put their own tags on the clothes of the stodgy upper class, coopting and customizing upscale brands like Tommy Hilfiger and Polo. Hilfiger started out designing "very preppy, traditional classics," says his brother, Andy, the company's vice president of public relations. "But around 1992, Grand Puba started rapping, and he gave Tommy a shout-out in one of his songs. And in the urban neighborhoods, all the kids started picking up on Tommy."
"It's called anti-culture," says Billy Ceisler, vice president of marketing for SRC, an innovative marketing company whose clients include the Wu-Tang Clan. "Young urban America, when they rocked Fila or Ralph Lauren, they used to say to the rich people, 'Fuck you, I can wear what you wear. I'm gonna rock it differently -- I'm gonna wear my hat to the side and everything big and baggy -- but fuck you, you're no better than me.'"
Eventually, in the early Nineties, enterprising minds -- many of whom were clothing and shoe fanatics who weren't seeing exactly what they wanted in stores -- decided to take out the middleman with their own home-grown, grass-roots alternatives to Polo and Tommy and Calvin. "We filled the fashion void in the young-men's market," says Ecko designer Marc Echo, 26, whose loose, colorful designs are worn by hip-hop kids and skateboarders alike. "The generation that had been bringing product to the marketplace grew up on thirteen TV channels and had no clue what the Internet or MTV meant. Department stores would send three 40-year-old white guys over to Italy to get inspired and design things for 16-to 25-year-olds. They didn't have a clue. The consumers are reactionary, fickle, over-sensitized by so much stimulus. We relate to those kids. We are those kids."
Back in the day, a shopping trip for most guys was equivalent to a prostate examination. That has changed. "When's the last time you heard a lady going, 'Guys hate to shop'?" asks Jeff Tweedy, executive vice president for Sean "Puffy" Combs' new clothing line, Sean John. "Remember that? It's not like that anymore." He laughs. "It's like, 'What? Shop? Let's go!'" yanzic0613.
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