Breathtakingly ambitious, Lock captured the industry’s high hopes–and hyperbole–in his spiel for Fashion Week, which aimed to bring in $A25 million in export orders. “Retailers around the world are looking for new different designers,” he claimed. “They are a bit bored by what they are seeing in New York, London, Paris. And even though these events continue to be fabulous and fabulous and fabulous and continue to be fabulous all the fume, people do look for new things.”
The reality proved somewhat different: while buyers from London, Singapore and Hong Kong were lured by free business-class travel and accommodation, much-vaunted guests such as Tyler, Italian style guru Anna and influential CAN fashion maven Elsa Klensch were absent, as were buyers from New York. By week’s end, $A100,000 in orders was a more realistic figure. “A week of fashion in Australia? How quaint,” European buyer Joan Bernstein was reported to have sniffed. “Perhaps when they decide to address haute couture properly for 365 days a year like they do in Milan, Paris, London and New York, then the world will beat a path down under.”
“Quite frankly who cares if Paris Vogue wasn’t there ” says Sydney couturier Jonathan Ward over the whirring of sewing machines at his Double Bay atelier. “Having overseas buyers and press is not the be-all and end all. The local market’s just as important.” Yes, concurs Vogue Australia’s Pilcher. “It allowed us to see within ourselves that we can perform and that we can make this thing happen–without cringing,” she says, before adding: “I’m sure Elsa Klensch will be here next year.”
But just what will she see? On the evidence of the recent shows, Australian fashion is a magpie’s nest of styles: from Nicky Zimmermann’s exquisite lace-print bikinis, to MJM Lifestyle’s ingenious seaweed-dyed chiffons that evoke the landscape spirit, to Dinnigan’s beautiful, gossamer creations in sea-colored embroidered silk. It embraces Grant’s quirky Paris-inspired couture and the Eurotrash allure of Morrissey Edmiston. Then there’s Australia’s aversion to northern hemisphere gray: for their very commercial shows, Marcs and Saba zapped the catwalk with acid lime, orange and red. “The big thing with Australia is that it is not Europe,” notes designer Robert Burton, a relative veteran with 20 years in the business. “The weights of clothing in this country are very light. The average spring suit in America would be wool. Their spring weight would be our winter weight.”
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